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Heating a house that was built before ducts.

Berkeley's housing stock is old, narrow and specific. This page is what we have learned working on it — the constraints, the reason a floor furnace has no successor, and the three routes a retrofit usually takes.

The stock

What the city is actually made of.

Berkeley filled in fast. The blocks south of campus went up around the turn of the century and through the 1910s — brown shingle, Craftsman bungalow, the occasional larger house cut into flats decades later. The 1923 fire took a wide band of the north side, and what replaced it went up through the mid-twenties, which is why the streets up there change character so abruptly from one block to the next. Then stucco in the thirties, a pause, and post-war infill wherever there was a gap.

The consequence for heating is simple. Almost none of it was built around a central heating system. Chimneys, yes. Gravity systems in the larger houses. Wall furnaces and floor furnaces added later, one appliance at a time, wherever a flue could be got to. Ductwork, where it exists at all, was usually added in the 1970s or later by somebody working in the space that was left over.

That is not a complaint about the houses. They are well built and they have lasted. It just means that the question "where does the equipment go" is a real question here, and it is the first one we answer.

A large cast-iron floor furnace grate set into a hardwood floor in a hallway, worn smooth around the edges.
A floor furnace grate — still doing its job in a great many of these houses
The question we get most

Why a floor furnace cannot be swapped like for like.

Not because there is anything wrong with the idea, but because of what has happened to the market around it.

What it is
A heater in the crawlspaceIt burns gas below the floor and lets heat rise through a single large grate. No fan in the older ones, no ducts, no filter, no thermostat worth the name in some cases. One central spot in the house gets warm and the rest depends on doors being open.
Why it lasted
Almost nothing in it can breakA floor furnace has very few moving parts. Plenty of them have run for forty or fifty years with nothing more than a pilot adjustment, which is exactly why so many are still in service.
What changed
The category shrankVery few manufacturers still build floor furnaces, choice is narrow, and the direction of travel in California building rules is away from new gas appliances rather than towards them. A direct replacement is not always available and, where it is, it buys you the same single warm spot you already have.
What we do instead
Look at what the house supportsUsually that is a ductless system, a small ducted system if the crawlspace allows one, or a combination — a ducted system for the main floor and a head in the room that has never worked. Which of those is possible depends on measurements, and we take them before we offer an opinion.
The floor itself
Somebody has to close the holeRemoving a floor furnace leaves an opening with framing cut around it, in a floor that is probably original. Patching it — framing, subfloor, matching the boards as closely as the room allows — is part of our quote and it is not an afterthought.

One thing worth saying plainly

If your floor furnace works, you like it, and you are not trying to heat the rest of the house or to cool any of it, there is no urgency here. We are not going to tell you a working appliance is an emergency. The time to make this decision is when it fails, when you are opening the floor anyway, or when you have decided you want the whole house comfortable rather than one hallway.

Four constraints

What we measure, and what each measurement rules out.

These four decide the shape of the job. Everything after them is preference and budget.

01

Crawlspace or attic clearance

Measured at the tightest point, not the hatch. Duct needs a body beside it to install it and to service it later. A generous crawlspace opens up a ducted system; a shallow one closes it off, and finding that out on day one saves a great deal of everyone's time.

02

Plaster over lath

It is harder, heavier and less forgiving than drywall, and it does not patch invisibly. We plan routes to cross it as few times as possible — through closets, through the crawlspace, up an exterior wall behind trim — rather than treating every wall as something you can simply cut into.

03

Electrical capacity

A heat pump is an electrical load, and a lot of these houses still have a small service with very little spare. We look at the panel on the survey and tell you what the equipment needs. If it needs an upgrade, that is your electrician's work and it belongs in your budget from the start.

04

Lot width and the neighbours

An outdoor unit needs clear air, a condensate route and distance from windows. On a narrow lot with a house either side, siting it is a negotiation with the building, not a detail. We settle it on the survey and show you where it will stand.

Hills and flats

The same house performs differently depending on the street it is on.

The flats sit lower and take more of the marine air that comes through the Gate; the hills sit above it more often and get more sun on more afternoons. It is not a dramatic difference, but it is a real one, and it shows up in how much cooling anybody actually uses and in which rooms complain first.

Access differs more than climate does. A hillside house may have its only crawlspace access down a flight of exterior steps, a side yard three feet wide against a retaining wall, and no flat ground within thirty feet for an outdoor unit. That affects what the job costs and how long it takes, and we would rather say so on the survey than discover it with a van already parked.

Flats
Level access, usually a shallower crawlspace, narrow lots, neighbours close on both sides. Siting the outdoor unit is the constraint.
Hills
Stepped lots, split-level floor plans, more sun, harder access. Getting equipment to where it needs to be is the constraint.
Both
Plaster, old framing, small electrical services, and rooms that have never been the same temperature as each other.
The three routes

Nearly every retrofit here is one of these.

We will tell you which ones your house supports and what separates them, and the quote will have all of them on it.

  1. All ductless

    One outdoor unit, heads in the rooms that need them. No ceilings opened, no crawlspace work beyond the line route. Usually the fastest and the least disruptive, and the only option in houses with no space at all.

  2. Ducted, in the space that exists

    A small ducted system in a tall crawlspace, a basement or a converted attic. One thermostat, nothing on the walls. Needs the clearance, and usually needs the duct doing properly rather than reusing what is there.

  3. A combination

    Ducted where the house allows it — often the main floor — and a head or two in the rooms it cannot reach: the converted attic bedroom, the back addition, the office over the garage. More common here than either of the pure options.

Newly installed insulated ductwork suspended on straps in a clean crawlspace, with a work light lying on the vapour barrier.
New duct in the space the house actually has
A slim white ductless indoor unit mounted high on a plaster wall above picture rail in a Craftsman room.
A head sited above the picture rail, where the room can carry it
Older-home questions

Things people ask once they have read this far.

Will running the lines wreck my plaster?

It should not. The route is planned to cross finished walls as little as possible — up the outside of the building behind a line cover, through a closet, or through the crawlspace and up into a corner. Where we do have to open plaster, we tell you where and how large before the work starts, and the patching is in the quote.

My house still has some knob-and-tube wiring. Is that a problem?

Not for the heating equipment itself, which will be on a new dedicated circuit either way. It matters in two other places: it can constrain what an electrician is willing to do at the panel, and it affects what happens if you later insulate the areas the old wiring runs through. We flag it when we see it and leave the wiring to an electrician, which is where it belongs.

Can you keep my gas furnace and just add cooling?

Often, yes — if the furnace is sound, correctly sized and has ductwork worth using. That is the cheapest route when it is available, and we will say so. It stops being the cheapest route when the duct needs replacing anyway, at which point you are paying for the expensive half of a heat pump installation without getting the heat pump.

Do the city's rules on gas appliances affect me?

Possibly, and this is an area where the rules in this part of California have changed more than once in recent years. We do not give you a version we half-remember. We check what applies to your address and your scope of work at the time we pull the permit, and we tell you what it means for your options before you choose one.

My house is a designated historic resource. Can you still work on it?

Yes, and the constraint is almost always about the exterior — what can be mounted on a visible elevation, and where. It is worth raising on the first call, because it can change where the outdoor unit and the line covers go, and that is much easier to design around at the start than to redo afterwards.

Book a survey and find out what your house supports.

An hour, no obligation, and you get the options in writing afterwards whether or not you use us.

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